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How British professionals imagine the future of Bourgogne wines
Neither Brexit nor the pandemic could stop Bourgogne Week London, which set the pace in January for the UK’s wine industry professionals. They did, however, force us to reinvent the event and to make it more online than ever before.
The UK is a loyal market for Bourgogne wines (see below) and one that is undergoing great change. Aware of these changes, the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) worked with trade publication The Buyer to organize a series of round tables during which a range of industry professionals were able to analyze these evolutions and give their predictions for the coming months.
During these rich exchanges, a wide range of topics were discussed, including the 2019 vintage, market trends, new kinds of relationships between the UK industry and Bourgogne as a result of COVID, and the development of E-Commerce for Bourgogne wines sales.
The vineyards in this southern part of Bourgogne flourish on a succession of hills separated by small valleys that offer good exposure to the sun and protection from the prevailing winds. They rise up when they reach the famous rocky outcrops of Vergisson and Solutré.
This is where you can find the Régionale Mâcon appellation with its 27 geographical denominations, extending from north to south across just 40 kilometers. Each denomination, which bears the name of its village, showcases the terroir and echoes the values of the region’s output.
This appellation grows across 43 hectares of both white and red. Facing east, the vines grow on slopes at between 290 and 370 meters above sea level up to the edges of the wooded hilltops. The subsoil is mainly marl-limestone from the mid-Jurassic, shallow, and fossil-filled. The plateaus are home to cooler soil with alternating layers of fine limestone and marl. The Gamay grapes for red Mâcon-Cruzille thrive on the iron-rich soil with fewer fossils that stores the heat of summer days.
The white wines made from the Chardonnay grape fall into two slightly different types, depending on the vinification method chosen by the winegrower.
When vinified and aged in vats, they have an open nose of orchard fruits like apple, peach, and quince, allied with springtime floral aromas of acacia, hawthorn, and honeysuckle. The attack is sincere and the wines are unctuous and fatty.
When aged traditionally in oak, this brings complexity with spicy notes of licorice and cinnamon and herby aromas of tea, verbena, and thyme. Rather mineral in the mouth, they offer hints of chalk, gunflint, and sometimes iodine.
Both are perfect as an aperitif, but they are also great with food. Try them with a creamy risotto. In summer, grilled fish, cold antipasti, or mixed salads are great, as are sushi, and those goat cheeses typical of the Mâconnais.
The red wines are 100 % Gamay and are rich both on the nose and in the mouth, with aromas of blueberries and raspberries. This crispness is underscored with spicy notes of pepper and nutmeg, sometimes with a touch of peat. Serve them lightly chilled at brunch with cold meats, bacon and cheese.
With very good numbers in November 2020, Bourgogne wine exports over the first 11 months of 2020 were in fact higher than those observed over the same period of 2019 by volume (up 0.5%), confirming the strong trend already observed in October. Revenue was also close to the record level of 2019, down just 2.6% compared with a fall of 9% at the end of September.
This is somewhat surprising given the sluggish economy, impacted by both COVID and the Trump tax, which strongly penalizes exports of Bourgogne wines to the USA (down 14% by volume and down 21% in terms of revenue, equating to a fall of some €44 million). But this was compensated for by a rise in volumes exported to the UK of some 2.2 million bottles (up 16%), seeing the UK return to the number one spot for exports of Bourgogne wines. Whether it can hold on to this honor remains to be seen (see below for more information).
In France, Bourgogne wines are more than maintaining their position on modern circuits, up 4.8% by volume over the first eight months of 2019, thanks in particular to their presence in convenience stores and availability via click and collect services.
The United Kingdom increased its overall wine imports in 2020, despite the threat of Brexit. Bourgogne wines in particular profited from this to return to growth (up 8.7% by volume and 3.9% in terms of revenue over 2018).
These good results were confirmed, against all expectations, in 2020. Despite the pandemic, over the first nine months, Bourgogne wines continued to post very good performance in terms of both volume and revenue compared to the same period in 2019:
* Up 11.6% by volume (the equivalent of 1.15 million bottles)
* Up 1.3% by revenue (up €1.3 million)
Almost all Bourgogne appellations profited from this growth, but the big winners were white wines (up 19% by volume), including Régionale Mâcon AOCs in particular (up 19%) and the four Chablis AOCs, up 7.4% by volume.
Although less impressive, growth seen by red wines was nevertheless reassuring, up 5.7%, driven mainly by the Régionale Bourgogne appellations, including Bourgogne plus geographical designation, which were up 19% by volume.
These good results are an excellent omen. The launch of the 2019 vintage during Bourgogne Week London (see above) should help this trend continue.
The interactive Rendez- vous avec les vins de Bourgogne show, broadcast by the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), brings together hundreds of wine professionals, journalists, and influencers from around the world with every broadcast to take a closer look at one or more Bourgogne AOCs.
We have scheduled three shows between now and the summer:
* 24 February: This first session of the year is dedicated to a little gem to discover or rediscover, namely the Rully appellation. This is a wine with multiple personalities in both red and white.
* 21 April: This session is entirely dedicated to Morey-Saint-Denis, a little known appellation that grows alongside certain Grand CrusAOCs and we’ll be looking for some family resemblances.
* 16 June: This summer show sets its sights firmly on the south, with an exploration of the Saint-Véran appellation which will be celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2021.
The show lasts for one hour. The first part is dedicated to a presentation of the featured appellation, with reportages and interviews with winegrowers. The second part of the show features a guided tasting of several wines that participants can sample simultaneously with an expert from the École des Vins de Bourgogne, who answers their questions asked on Twitter with the hashtag #BIVBRDV live during the tasting. The show is broadcast via the internet in 10 countries, in both French and English.
The pandemic may have cruelly reminded us that travel is not a human right. But never fear – the BIVB has a great way for you to keep in touch with Bourgogne. Our YouTube channel is a great place for exploring whilst never leaving home, and from presentations of different appellations from the Rendez-vous avec les vins de Bourgogne show to immersions into the lives of winegrowers through our series of films on the winegrowing trade, the entire universe of Bourgogne wines and those who produce it is just a click away.
Most of our videos are available in both French and English but some are also in Swedish, Japanese, and more. There’s something for everyone, so click here to get started!
Bourgogne vs. Burgundy: to re-affirm their identity, the region and the producers are reverting back to the original French iteration of the name, Bourgogne.
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