The pickers may be exhausted by the heat, but they're all smiles this year!
Indeed, the 2023 vintage is shaping up to be a very good one, particularly in terms of volume. The grape clusters were beautiful and the grapes themselves were bursting with sugar. Picking for the Crémant de Bourgogne began on August 25, followed by the still wines (white and red) harvests at the beginning of September. Picking will continue until the end of the third week of September.
It’s true to say that although 2023 was very changeable, the vines had everything they needed to perform at their best. There was sunshine, but it was not too hot at flowering time, so that each flower could form into a grape berry, there were regular showers to produce juice, and sufficient light to obtain optimum ripeness.
However, it was not all plain sailing, as the winegrowers were quick to point out: they had to remain vigilant right up until the last moment. After successfully combating disease outbreaks at the start of the cycle, they had to keep a calm head when conditions deteriorated in the first part of August. And even more so when the heatwave hit at the end of August, temporarily halting ripening and making picking conditions difficult.
The biggest constraint was the heat at harvest time: several winegrowers opted to pick at night, while others started as early as 5am to harvest the grapes when they were cool. After rigorous sorting, particularly of the Pinot Noir grapes which were most affected by the conditions over the year, the grapes were often cooled so that the alcoholic fermentation could begin at a leisurely pace, a process that allows all the aromas of the year to be extracted as fully as possible.
Vinification began and will continue until spring. Overall, the yields are good, with a lovely aromatic expression. We'll know more at the Hospices de Beaune wine auction on November 19. This will be the first trial run for the 2023 vintage.
At your service
Save the date: Bourgogne wine press conference
Make a note in your diary for October 10 to take stock of the Bourgogne wine sector.
François Labet and Laurent Delaunay, Presidents of the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), are holding their autumn press conference on Tuesday, October 10 at 11am.
A number of topics will be on the agenda:
- The harvest and the 2023 vintage
- Discussion of the economic situation
- Cité des Climats et vins de Bourgogne, update four months after the opening
- Other news items
- Key events to come in 2023/2024
After a successful opening ceremony and a summer of visits, the time has come for the Cité des Climats et vins de Bourgogne in Chablis, Beaune and Mâcon to unveil the autumn program.
The Cité continues in its aim to be a place dedicated to Bourgogne, its Climats and its wines, accessible to young and old alike.
It is offering a varied program, including guided tours, activities for children and families, afterwork events, exhibitions, workshops and wine-tasting courses.
The November 29 broadcast of “Rendez-Vous avec les vins de Bourgogne” will feature the Montagny appellation.
--> What’s new: You can now watch the live show while tasting the wines in the comfort of your own home!
- The first part will reveal the characteristics of the appellation with reports and interviews with winegrowers.
- The second part will feature a guided tasting of several wines that participants will be able to taste simultaneously. Robin Kick, MW, and winemakers will answer questions in the live chat.
To watch the program on the day:
> Without the tasting and at home follow this link: www.rendez-vous-vins-bourgogne.live
In French at 4pm; in English at 9am, 11am and 7pm (Paris time, GMT+2).
No subscription is required.
> To taste the wines, come along to one of the sessions organised by the Official Bourgogne Wine Instructors or register.
Journalist, to get more information, to register and/or receive samples to enjoy the tasting, contact cecile.mathiaud@bivb.com
Save the dates for 2 more shows on the 1st half of 2024:
- Maranges and its Premier Cru Climats: 27 March
- Vézelay: 19 June
Plant material: 2023 brings major projects to fruition
The BIVB has just published its eighth technical booklet, with a focus on plant material.
Manuel Olivier, Vice-Chairman of the Technical Committee of the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) made this stark observation: “The past four vintages have shown us the destabilising effects of climate change in a short space of time: frost, heatwave, drought, unusually early harvests and rot. “These four years include three of the hottest years on record since the beginning of the 20th century.”
He went on to say: “As we stated in 2019, plant material plays a key role in this context. Whether it's a question of the availability of plants, intra-varietal diversity and changes in grape varieties, or the choice of rootstocks and disease resistance, the Technical and Quality Center of the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) is leading and supporting projects that meet the challenges encountered in the field. 2023 will see some major projects come to fruition for the future of wine growing in Bourgogne.”
Other projects include:
- Qanopée: an insect-proof greenhouse system to secure plant material for vine planting
- Genetic diversity of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay: understanding and studying their behaviour, and thus broadening the range available to winegrowers
- Exploring other varieties in Bourgogne: to anticipate needs linked to climate change
- Rootstock: diversifying to help adapt to climate change
- CEPinnov: creating resistant varieties with regional characteristics to meet societal expectations
This technical booklet is available on the BIVB Extranet here (in French only).
At your service
Cave de Prestige: 168 wines to represent Bourgogne!
97 Cellars, Maisons and Estates congratulated at the 52nd Cave de Prestige awards ceremony by the Bourgogne Wine Board.
In June, Presidents of the BIVB François Labet and Laurent Delaunay, congratulated the 97 Cellars, Maisons and Estates selected for inclusion in the 2023 Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) Cave de Prestige.
The Cave de Prestige has been an annual industry event for more than 50 years!
The selection is a true mark of quality that celebrates the excellence and diversity of Bourgogne wines. Its standards are rigorous: of the 884 wines entered, only 19% - or 168 wines - were awarded the precious label.
Many of the world's award-winning producers started out with one or more wines selected from the Cave de Prestige. This is one of the first steps towards greater recognition.
Wines from the Cave Prestige are served at every workshop or event organised by the BIVB around the world (VIP receptions, press trips, wine tasting courses at the Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne, training courses for those in the business, gastronomic evenings, etc.) The wines are true ambassadors for the next 12 months, bearing the official label of the selection.
To find who the winners are, download the list here.
More than 15,000 bottles will be ordered to support the Wine Board’s promotional and training activities over the 2023/2024 financial year.
The 163rd Hospices de Beaune wine auction will take place on Sunday November 19, at Les Halles de Beaune.
Since 1945, raising money for charity has been at the forefront of the Hospices de Beaune wine auction. Although this auction is primarily organised for the benefit of the Hospices de Beaune (a museum, hospital, retirement home, etc.), each year the Charity Barrel is sold for the benefit of one or more charities.
This year, conscious of this public health challenge, the Hospices will be supporting one or more charities involved in avoiding problems linked to ageing and helping people preserve their independence as they age.
On the occasion of the auction, the weekend will see different events for the press and the public:
> On Sunday, before the auction (which starts at 2.30pm), the traditional joint press conference will see the Hospices de Beaune and the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) discuss the latest news.
--> 10am in Les Halles
> The full press program for the weekend, starting at the Palais des Congrès on Friday morning, will soon be available online in the BIVB press room, and an invitation will be sent to you in October...
Hospices de Beaune press officer: Estelle Bidault - 06.73.91.77.79
News from the vineyard
October 21-22: Join the 75th Chablis Wine Festival
Come to the heart of the Chablis village to celebrate the new 2023 vintage and meet the producers!
The 75th Chablis Wine Festival will take place on October 21-22 in the centre of Chablis.
Since it was first held in 1949, the Chablis Wine Festival has evolved to offer visitors an ever more enjoyable, festive event. Its 75th anniversary is an opportunity to enjoy a weekend of meetings with wine professionals from the Chablis and Grand Auxerrois vineyards, as well as tastings, events and new discoveries.
The Chablis Marathon will once again be held on the Saturday, with races for all ages.
Saturday October 21 - 12.30 to 6pm
Tastings by around 40 winegrowers, entertainment for adults and children, catering and food stands.
6pm: Play "Le Jeu de l'Amour et du Hasard" by Compagnie AMAB in the courtyard of Château Long-Depaquit (in French).
Sunday October 22 - 9.30am to 6pm
Tastings by around 40 winegrowers, entertainment for adults and children, catering and food stands.
9.30 to 11.30am: walks through the vineyards, starting from Chablis town hall.
11am: opening of the stands and parade of Les Piliers Chablisiens, with the Les Enfants de Chablis brass band.
11.30am: VIP speeches and inductions into Les Piliers Chablisiens in the courtyard of Château Long-Depaquit.
More information and details about the program on the Chablis wines website here.
October 21-22: Come for a Coup d'Œil, Coup de Cœur in Auxey-Duresses
The Auxey-Duresses producers throw open their cellars in the heart of the Côte de Beaune for a weekend of wine tasting!
Every year, on the fourth weekend in October, the picturesque village of Auxey-Duresses opens its cellars to the public. It's a chance to discover the Côte de Beaune in all its dazzling autumn colours.
That’s the “Coup d'Œil” (glance) section.
As for the “Coup de Cœur” (crush) part, you'll be able to discover or revisit this Village appellation and its Climats classified as Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru, which offer excellent value for money.
IN PRACTICE:
- The cellars are located in Auxey-Duresses and Melin (a hamlet of Auxey-Duresses): there’s a free shuttle bus between Auxey and Melin
- Wine tasting from 10am to 6pm, both days
- Welcome ceremony in the Place de l’Eglise in Auxey, by students from the Maison Familiale de Grandchamp
- A €5 glass entitles you to taste wine at all the cellars marked with the "Coup d'Œil, Coup de Cœur" logo
- Small bites: escargots, œufs en meurette, Charolais burger
- Event sponsor: La Crémaillère in Auxey-Duresses (reservations on 03.80.21.64.48)
- Some food exhibitors alongside the wine growers
- Barrel-making demonstration by specialist makers Billon
- Craft displays
More details and the list of participating wine growers here (only in French).
News from the vineyard
October 5-7: The Rencontres du Clos-Vougeot
"Biodiversity in the vineyard and in the cellar: a resource and a tool for agro-ecology", is the theme of the 17th Rencontres du Clos-Vougeot event.
The Rencontres du Clos-Vougeot event will comprise two sessions, "Biodiversity in the vineyard" and "Biodiversity in the cellar", with a wide range of speakers.
- The first day, dedicated to agroecology and biodiversity, will be followed by a tasting hosted by the Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne and the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) at 6pm.
- The second day, dedicated to biodiversity in the vineyard and in the cellar, will end with a concert in the Grand Cellier of the Château at 6pm.
- The final day will be dedicated to a round-table discussion, moderated by Hervé Hannin (from the Institut Agro Montpellier) on the development opportunities for agroecology.
- An afternoon tour of the estate will round off the 17th Rencontres du Clos-Vougeot.
Download the full program and registration form here (only in French).
Find out the winning wines in the 112th Tastevinage selection!
132 wines were selected on September 8 at the 112th Tastevinage at the Château du Clos de Vougeot.
Around 100 tasters from the wine industry came together to taste choose the wines that were most representative of their appellations and vintages.
This Autumn session was sponsored by William Wouters, Belgium's Best Sommelier 1992, President of the Belgian Sommeliers Guild, European president of the Association de Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) since 2020 and organiser of the World Sommelier Championships.
The results of the 112th Tastevinage selection:
Winegrowers, sommeliers, restaurateurs, wine merchants, buyers, journalists and knowledgeable connoisseurs gathered in the Grand Cellier of the Château du Clos de Vougeot, to taste the 400 Bourgogne wines entered at this year's event. Each wine is tasted anonymously to ensure the impartiality of the tasters.
Of all the wines presented, only 132 were awarded the Tastevinage seal, equivalent to 33% of the wines presented to the jury.
In total, they selected:
- 46 Régionale appellations
- 50 Village appellations
- 36 Village Premier Cru and Grand Cru appellations
This result fulfils the mission of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin: to promote the great wines of Bourgogne, whatever their level of appellation.
This is the first wine estate to be acquired by the group, which is more used to buying SMEs in the food industry.
For its two managers, who have been passionate about Bourgogne wines for many years, Domaine des Terres de Velle holds the promise of continuing its wonderful legacy with each passing vintage…
The Domaine des Terres de Velle:
Established in 2009, in Auxey-Duresses, this family estate produces 16 different wines from its seven hectares of vines.
In 2022, 48,000 bottles of wines made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Aligoté were produced.
The estate is now run by Sophie and Fabrice Laronze. The new owners announced they would keep them at the head of the estate.
The Solexia group is an independent entrepreneurial investment fund, formed in 2005 from the combination of holdings held personally at the time by Hervé Kratiroff. He was joined in 2007 by Eric Versini.
The Solexia model: a daily investment by both its directors in the operational management of its businesses, a human investment, respectful of people and businesses.
Read the full press release here (only in French).
Domaine Montbarbon now reuses its bottles!
Beginning with its 2022 vintage, Domaine Montbarbon will recover its bottles for reuse.
"We're not coming up with anything new. We're just doing what our grandparents used to do when they brought back their returnable bottles for a refill", said Jean-Jacques Féral, the new manager of Domaine Montbarbon in Viré (Mâconnais). “To my way of thinking, it’s all very well having environmentally friendly practices in the vineyard and cellar, but that's no longer enough. We also need to really think about our supplies and dry materials".
Before this could happen, there was the small technical matter of the labels. "We had to work on two areas: paper and glue. As we wanted to improve our labels, we gave the job to our new printer in Charnay-lès-Mâcon", said Mr Féral, who cultivates 13 hectares of Mâcon-Villages and Viré-Clessé AOCs.
And that was not all, a service provider then had to be found to wash the bottles. This was done by Groupe Serge Cheveau in Ladoix (Côte d’Or). "The idea was that all operations should take place in the region. There's no point in driving hundreds of kilometres by lorry".
For the moment, the policy is limited to bottles bought in our shop. “It's a trial run", he added. "Customers need to get into new habits, such as remembering to bring back their empty bottles”. And looking ahead to the next stage: "For the 2023 vintage, I plan to join a national collection network so that I can offer a way forward for all my customers”.
A rose named after the Comtesse Liger-Belair rose
The latest creation from Pépinières et Roseraies Georges Delbard is the Comtesse Liger-Belair® rose, a luminous deep pink flower.
After more than seven years of research, Pépinières et Roseraies Georges Delbard are delighted to introduce their latest creation: the Comtesse Liger-Belair® rose.
It was named on June 20 this year as a tribute to the Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, a family wine estate in Vosne-Romanée, in the heart of the Climats du vignoble de Bourgogne UNESCO site.
This vigorous, free-flowering rose, with its fabulous agronomic qualities, is covered in magnificent deep pink flowers with an original fragrance.
For more information on this new rose, download the full press release here (only in French).
Bourgogne vs. Burgundy: to re-affirm their identity, the region and the producers are reverting back to the original French iteration of the name, Bourgogne.
EN DIRECT 9 issues per year, published by
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