New AOC signs in the vines: Almost all the new boards are now in place
Bourgogne is the only French winegrowing region to boast such a network of signposts.
Work on replacing the signs, which is being orchestrated by the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), is well underway.
To-date, almost 280 signposts for Bourgogne wine appellations have been replaced across the region. Signs for the vines in the Châtillonnais and the Grand Auxerrois were replaced in 2022, and now, it’s the turn of those in the Mâconnais, the Côte Chalonnaise, the Côtes de Beaune and the Côtes de Nuits. Those in the Chablis region, which are more recent than the rest, will remain in position for a little longer with the old visual.
The new signs are in shades of brown to evoke the land and have a natural fit within the landscape. With imagery reflecting the region’s Climats, they highlight the notion of terroir, so important to Bourgogne wines. These new and updated signposts clearly fit with the region’s ambition for excellence in terms of wine tourism. Indeed, Bourgogne is the only region in France to benefit from such a network of panels for visitors.
This program for updating the signs runs in parallel to the opening of the Cité des Climats et vins de Bourgogne on three sites in Mâcon, Chablis, and Beaune at the end of the spring. Visitors will be able to learn more about Bourgogne wines in the Cité and then head out to explore the terroir and meet the producers in real life.
The panels appear regularly on social media as passing tourists like to publish selfies in their favorite appellations.
The Cité des Climats Adventure
Mid-June: Official opening of the Cité des Climats et Vin de Bourgogne network
Preview events will run in Chablis and Mâcon in May, but the Cité network is planning 4 days of official festivities across all three sites in mid-Jun
After several years of reflection, design, and hard work, the Cité des Climats et vins de Bourgogne, supported by the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), is preparing a major inaugural event from 15-18 June.
This will be a two-stage event:
- 15 & 16 June: Inaugural ceremonies for financiers, industry and tourism professionals, and the press.
- 17 & 18 June: Opening of the Beaune site to the general public with a series of celebrations across the network (including Mâcon and Chablis)
But if you can’t wait that long, you can catch a preview of the network and its visitor experiences at the Mâcon site on 3 May, and in Chablis on 17 May.
Visitors will be able to explore the full history of Bourgogne and enjoy some fascinating experiences through a wide range of activities, for young and old alike.
For kids
In addition to their own dedicated tour, younger visitors will be able to spice up their visit to the Cité with games and mystery challenges.
For families
Families will enjoy a range of fun yet educational activities on various themes including biodiversity, archaeology, and vineyard landscapes. These activities are suited to children aged between 5-10 years old, accompanied by an adult.
A more detailed program will follow soon.
Click here for all the latest news from the Cité network
At your service
Bourgogne is investing in testing out new rootstock
The GreffBourgogne program involves planting and monitoring experimental platforms dedicated to rootstock.
With climate change shifting the world as we know it, the future of Bourgogne wines depends on its rootstocks, the diversity of which has yet to be fully explored. As a result, the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) is now piloting a large-scale project to explore this field, along with a range of regional partners.
The GreffBourgogne program aims to test new rootstocks across Bourgogne’s full range of microclimates. In the long term, it will allow winegrowers to choose the right rootstock for every location.
The program has three key thrusts, the most visible of which is the creation of observation platforms throughout the region. A first plot was planted in Beaune on the Côte d'Or in the spring of 2022, comprising Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines. A further two plots of Aligoté and Pinot Noir followed in the fall of that year, in Aluze and Rully. A third plot of Chardonnay will be planted in Lugny in the spring of 2023, with another Chardonnay plot planned for the Northern part of Bourgogne in 2024.
At the same time, researchers from the Chambers of Agriculture, the Groupement d'Etudes et de Suivi des Terroirs (GEST) and the Association Technique Viticole de Bourgogne (ATVB) are also studying selected volunteer vineyards, where plots have been planted with different rootstocks according to the experimental protocols.
The project’s third thrust involves more than 20 wineries that are taking part in the project, following autonomous observation protocols on their own plots.
“We are expecting new results every year, because each campaign will be a source of learning,” explains Héloïse Mahé, Project Manager at the BIVB. “This program will run for at least 10 years, but the results will be published annually to help winegrowers choose their rootstocks. We will wait until the end of the 2023 campaign – the second year of observation – to publish our first results.”
This project has significant input from across the region and enjoys a budget of €200,000 for the first three campaigns (2022-2024). The BIVB is driving the initiative, working with the Chambers of Agriculture of the three départements of the Yonne, the Côte-d'Or, and Saône-et-Loire; the GEST; and the ATVB. The IFV also brings its horticultural expertise.
Chablis masterclasses to run stateside
A series of masterclasses on Chablis wines organized in partnership with Black Wine Professionals.
The Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) invites you to challenge your knowledge of Chablis Wines in partnership with Black Wine Professionals.
The Chablis Scholar Series is a national education program, featuring masterclasses across the US hosted by official Bourgogne wine ambassadors and Black Wine Professionals representatives.
Qualified wine trade professionals are welcome to join one of these upcoming events:
- Los Angeles on Monday 17 April
- Washington DC on Monday 24 April
- Chicago on Monday 1 May
Masterclass attendees will have the opportunity to participate in an essay competition for the chance to win a trip to Chablis in July 2023 with Black Wine Professionals Founder Julia Coney.
This is an exclusive event for wine trade professionals and all registrations will undergo a credentials review.
In June, the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) is running its accreditation program for its Official Bourgogne Wine Trainers. The aim is to train new “ambassadors” for the region’s wine from right across the world.
The prestigious community of Official Bourgogne Wine Trainers is a large family that currently counts 60 members. They represent Bourgogne wines in different markets around the globe, training both professionals, including sommeliers, wine merchants, and importers, along with amateur wine buffs.
They are all very effective influencers, communicating across social media to promote the entire range of wines from the region.
New members may only join the team after passing a rigorous accreditation process. Only the very best will obtain their diploma at the end of the process. Their knowledge of Bourgogne wines is evaluated by the BIVB across several phases. Their motivation is also taken into consideration, along with an analysis of any events they already host to promote Bourgogne wines.
An initial theoretical examination has already taken place, with 11 candidates selected to come to the region from 12-17 June. There, the applicants will take part in tastings, meetings with winegrowers and merchants, and will explore a range of food and wine pairings. A final tasting exam on tasting will validate their access to this exclusive community.
Bourgogne and Chablis wines are going on tour with masterclasses in the UK
Take part in a UK masterclass hosted by Michelle Cherutti-Kowal, Master of Wine.
Bourgogne is world renowned for producing exceptional wines that showcase its unique terroir and expertise in every appellation. But while many of its wines have reached iconic status, others are yet to be discovered.
The Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) is inviting members of the UK wine trade to take part in a series of masterclasses in association with trade publication The Drinks Business.
Master of Wine Michelle Cherutti-Kowal will guide them through a selection of lesser-known appellations that bring new opportunities to develop a competitive response to today’s consumers seeking value for money.
As predicted just after the harvest, the 2022 vintage was generous in Bourgogne, with average yields up 18% compared to the average over the last five years. In total, excluding the Volume Compensatoire Individuel or VCI, 1.748 million hectoliters of wines (~233 million bottles) are now being aged (sources: CAVB and FDAC - Declaration of Harvest 2022). This is the second-best yield ever after the 2018 harvest of almost 1.82 million hectoliters.
- White wines account for most of the harvest, totaling 1,073 million hectoliters or 61% of the 2022 harvest (~143 million bottles), up 24.5% on the average over the last five vintages.
- The volume of red wine reached 477,607 hectoliters or 27% of the 2022 harvest (~63,7 million bottles), up 20% on the average over the last five vintages.
- Crémant de Bourgogne wines accounted for 192,293 hectoliters (~25,6 million bottles) or 11% of the harvest, up 18% on the average over the last five vintages.
When the VCI is added to these already very good numbers, Bourgogne will be able to satisfy all of its markets. Winegrowers are already crossing their fingers for the 2023 vintage.
Fans of Bourgogne wines will also be very happy with these wines whose quality was recently praised at the Hospices de Nuits wine auction which ran in mid-March.
Click here for more information on the 2022 vintage with details about the year’s weather (updated)
Exports of Bourgogne wines are doing well, despite a fall in terms of volumes
After an exceptional year in 2021, export volumes of Bourgogne wines were down 12.3% following the small harvest, which limited available stocks.
However, these exports were still 3% above figures for 2019 of 92.4 million bottles. There was, nonetheless, a significant decline for the more accessible AOC groups, notably Mâcon, Petit Chablis, and Chablis.
In terms of volumes, the North American, Scandinavian, and Asian markets remained satisfactory compared to 2019. The situation was more complicated for markets closer to home, like Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, and the UK, which are also transit markets.
In terms of value, Bourgogne set a new record, for the first time passing the symbolic mark of 1.5 billion euros (up 13% over 2021). This revenue, which has enjoyed almost continuous growth since 2010, has doubled over the past eight years. In 2022, Bourgogne alone accounted for half of the uplift in sales of French AOCs excluding Champagne.
Over the past two years, the growth in terms of revenue has mostly been driven by Village and Village Premier Cru appellations along with Grand Cru AOCs from the Côtes de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, as well as the Bourgogne AOC. The region posted record levels of revenue in virtually all its main markets, although the USA, the UK and continental China have alone accounted for 43% of its growth in revenue since 2019.
For more information, see the economic report for 2022 in the April edition of this newsletter.
News from the vineyard
Success for the 62nd Hospices de Nuits wine auction
The Hospices de Nuits wine auction, which took place on Sunday 12 March, kept its promises with exceptional sales totaling some €3.6 million.
The Hospices de Nuits-Saint-Georges wine auction is traditionally held at the Château du Clos de Vougeot, and the results of this 62nd edition were in line with the dynamic growth the sale has enjoyed over the past four years. Thanks to a more generous harvest for 2022 than in previous years, some 160 barrels of wine were up for sale this year, with some 19 different appellations representing the diversity and authenticity of each appellation. Sales amounted to a hammer price of €3,603,000, up 45% over last year’s event when 109 barrels were up for grabs.
The “Pièce de Charité” (charity barrel) raised a new record sum of €64,580 for the Blouses Roses non-profit, represented by the French actress Constance Dollé.
The sale of 18 red appellations garnered a hammer price of €3,504,000, up 44.32% over 2022. While the only lot of white wine - a Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Les Terres Blanches, Cuvée Pierre de Pême – brought in €99,000, up 70.69% compared to the previous edition!
The reputation of the Hospices de Nuits-Saint-Georges wine auction continues to grow, and the quality of the wines on offer was recognized as being down to the work of the estate’s winegrower Jean-Marc Moron. The 2022 harvest was a sunny and opulent one, which seduced buyers looking for a perfectly balanced vintage with a lovely freshness in a classical expression of the Bourgogne style.
The Climats du Vignoble de Bourgogne association, which coordinates the management of this World Heritage site, has created a Biodiversity Fund to finance and support collective projects aimed at maintaining and developing biodiversity across the Climats. Over the past five years, it has also been running a Heritage Fund to finance and support the restoration of the architectural heritage of the vineyards, including walls, huts (cabotes), and gates.
The biodiversity fund is open to NGOs, vineyard management bodies (ODGs), and local authorities, etc. seeking to promote the maintenance or development of biodiversity across the Climats UNESCO World Heritage site.
A diagnostic and land study phase will be systematically requested from project leaders, which may be financed by the fund unless already completed. The selected projects will benefit from aid varying from 50-80% for each stage of the project, in addition to measures already proposed by partners such as the Chamber of Agriculture or the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB).
Maintaining biodiversity is key to preserving the ecological balance in the region’s vineyards. And winegrowing across the Climats has a role to play in the proper functioning of natural agricultural environments, in maintaining environmental equilibrium, and in preserving the vitality of our landscapes. We must work together to preserve the variety of flora and fauna in the vines, including invertebrates, birds, mammals, reptiles, and amphibians. This can be done through a range of actions including favoring grassed areas; diversifying management methods; planting hedges, copses, or single trees; maintaining architectural heritage; and conserving wetlands.
Click here to download the full press release (in French only).
Winegrowers and estates
New owner at the Domaine Montbarbon
Jean-Jacques Féral has taken over the Domaine Montbarbon and won the Young Talents trophy from the Groupe des Jeunes Professionnels de la Vigne.
Jean-Jacques Féral, the new owner of the Domaine Montbarbon, has won the Young Talents Trophy for the Mâconnais from the Groupe des Jeunes Professionnels de la Vigne in 2022. The trophy thus remains in the Viré-Clessé appellation for the second year in a row since its award to Franz Ludwig at the Domaine Gondard-Perrin in 2021.
The award, which recognizes young talent from each of the Bourgogne region’s production areas, was presented recently at a gala dinner in Chassagne-Montrachet.
Three wines from the 2020 vintage were presented: Mâcon-Villages Les Origines, Viré-Clessé La Petite Condemine, and Viré-Clessé Quintaine La Chapelle Saint-Trivier. In a blind tasting, sommelier Fabien Espana and journalist Rachelle Lemoine were charmed by the balance and aromatic complexity of the wines bearing the Montbarbon estate’s “M” logo.
“This award is great news, especially at this special time for the estate,” explains Feral, now manager of the Domaine Montbarbon. “It is a reward for all the hard work done in recent years,” he says.
Feral initially worked as a journalist before retraining as a winemaker. He worked at the Domaine Nicolas Maillet in Verzé and the Domaine des Poncétys in Davayé before joining Martine and Jacky Montbarbon and then going on to acquire the business from the Montbarbon family.
“It all happened by word of mouth,” he explains. “Just when they were looking for a buyer, I was looking for vines, and we found a fit. The success of my business depended on the success of their succession and vice versa,” he concludes.
The Domaine de la Luolle is located in Moroges on the Côte Chalonnaise, close by the Route des Grands Vins de Bourgogne. It is an estate on a human scale, with eight hectares under vine, cultivated using an organic and biodynamic approach. The estate offers a varied range of wines, including Givry, Mercurey, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Bourgogne Aligoté, and some lovely Crémant de Bourgognes.
From 6-8 May, Lille-born visual artist Natasha Dupont from the Poëtic Brindilles workshop will be in residence. She will be exploring and experimenting with a range of different artistic media, including drawing, painting, and photography.
The program:
Saturday 6 May
- Workshop 1: Taste With Your Eyes
Contemporary still life work (studio)
- Presentation of the Domaine de la Luolle by Sandrine and Olivier
- Tasting of still and sparkling organic wines
Sunday 7 May
- Welcome event and sensory stroll through the vines
- Workshop 2: The Domaine de la Luolle
An organic look at vines and landscapes, graphic work with charcoal and pastels and photography (outside)
- Picnic
- Workshop 3: Men, Women, and Winemaking
Tools, places, cellars (studio & outside)
Photography, life drawing, observation work (pencil, biro, felt-tip pen etc.)
- Evening meal with wine at the Salon de Grégoire in Givry
Monday 8 May
- Workshop 4: The Colors of Wine
From figurative to abstract, ink and watercolor, bottle-label format
- Picnic and closing event including a presentation of the work
Places are limited and reservations are open until 15 April
More information is available in the press release here (only in french)
Bourgogne vs. Burgundy: to re-affirm their identity, the region and the producers are reverting back to the original French iteration of the name, Bourgogne.
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